You might have seen a wave of people on social media channeling their best Hannibal Lecter while wearing an LED face mask with red or blue lights. They're not eating liver with a side of fava beans, but instead claiming that the wrinkles and fine lines on their faces have disappeared with the help of a red light therapy mask.
I was intrigued. I just turned 30, but a few years ago, I went to an esthetician for help with acne and left with an insecurity. “You are too young to have these lines,” she said. Yikes. There's nothing wrong with aging, but my lines—from my seemingly uncontrollable ability to furrow my eyebrows—bother me. So when I see influencers, dermatologists, and regular people like me shelling out hundreds of dollars to get rid of them, I have to know: Does it work? I tested a few masks for a few months to see for myself and contacted a dermatologist to get answers.
How Does Light Therapy Work?
The right types of light can have a positive effect on the skin. Red light therapy utilizes near-infrared light and can help with wrinkles, while blue light therapy uses wavelengths of blue light to help kill acne-causing bacteria.
Collagen and elastin, proteins that help improve elasticity in the skin and reduce wrinkles, are produced by fibroblast cells in the dermis of the skin—the middle layer, under your epidermis, which is the outer layer. Red light LEDs penetrate the dermis and can stimulate the production of these proteins to help reduce wrinkles, according to Abigail Waldman, clinical director of the Mohs and Dermatologic Surgery Center at Brigham and Women’s Hospital.
Research funded by NASA has revealed that red light can also speed up the healing process in some injuries. “High-intensity red and near-infrared LEDs significantly accelerated the healing of oxygen-deprived wounds in rats and also sped the growth and proliferation of skin, bone, and muscle cell cultures from mice and rats.” NASA supplied LED devices to the US Navy to treat training injuries. Those who used the LEDs had a 40 percent improvement in musculoskeletal injuries and 50 percent faster healing for lacerations over the control group.
Blue light, on the other hand, penetrates the epidermis, the top layer of skin, killing acne-causing bacteria. “It also reportedly helps to regulate oil production and reduce inflammation, leading to clearer skin,” says Shoshana Marmon, a board-certified dermatologist and assistant professor of dermatology at New York Medical College.
Topical retinoids, like over-the-counter retinol and prescription tretinoin, can also treat wrinkles and texture by slowing the breakdown of collagen and increasing skin cell turnover. Both retinol and LEDs typically take several months to see results, but retinoids come with more side effects, such as increased breakouts and sometimes flakey, burning skin.
Unfortunately, not everyone will see results from red or blue light therapy—and this might contribute to the suspicion around these devices and whether they work. You won't know until you try, though you should talk to a dermatologist to see what they recommend based on your skin type. Waldman says there's no reason to believe red light could be harmful if you're pregnant or breastfeeding, but as there isn't much research involving pregnant women, you should consult your physician first. We also recommend making sure the device you're considering is FDA-cleared.
Wavelengths, Explained
Light therapy devices are often quite costly, but there's good reason: You can't get the same effect with just any red LED from the hardware store. If the wavelength isn't strong enough, it won't penetrate your skin—sorry to the one TikTokker sitting in front of a heated chicken lamp.
These are the typical wavelengths, measured in nanometers, to look for:
- Red light therapy commonly uses wavelengths in the 630 to 660 nanometer range, with the lowest effective wavelength around 600 nanometers.
- Near-infrared red lights are commonly 800 to 1,400 nanometers. These penetrate deeper into the skin and are used mostly for healing and reducing inflammation.
- Blue light is typically 405 to 420 nanometers to kill acne-causing bacteria.
How to Use Red Light Therapy and LED Face Masks
LED light therapy doesn't work for everyone, but consistency is crucial if you want to try it. If you don't think you'll remember to use a light therapy mask multiple times a week, you won't see results and it won't be worth the money.
Follow the directions for the specific device you're using, but in general, you'll want to wash and dry your face and use the mask before applying any skincare products. Devices should have a set session time, usually between three and 10 minutes. Use it for the full time unless it feels uncomfortable. Apply your skincare after as normal, focusing on hydrating serums or moisturizers, especially if you're prone to dryness. Do not use these masks longer than indicated in their directions.
While you can use red light therapy and retinoids in your routine, Waldman doesn't recommend using them simultaneously as it can increase the chance of irritation.
Take some photos before you start using a mask so you can track progress. You may not see dramatic results immediately, but with photos, you can at least tell if something is happening.
Our Testing
I've been using the Omnilux Contour LED mask, which is among the most popular LED face masks right now. The red light wavelengths are 633 nanometers and near-infrared are 830 nanometers. It has preprogrammed 10-minute sessions and the company says to use it three to five times a week for four to six weeks. Then you'll want to keep up the results by using the device occasionally after that.
Six weeks was not long enough for me to see results—I ended up using it for three months straight. Sadly, I haven't noticed much of a difference in my wrinkles. Some people may see results sooner, but Waldman says that three months is typically the earliest amount of time that you'd see results. “You didn’t get wrinkles overnight and they’re not going to go away overnight. Consistency and patience are key,” she says.
The Omnilux is a flat, flexible mask, so it should fit most types of face shapes, but it does feel more awkward to wear than a hard mask (see the SpectraLite below). Two velcro straps close around the back of your head to keep it in place. It's not uncomfortable, but I did need to loosen the straps and lie down while using it so it stayed in place, otherwise my nose was left red and smushed. (Maybe bumpy Italian noses are not the target audience.) The company also sells neck ($395) and hand ($345) devices, but I have used the face mask on my neck instead—who wants to buy the same product three times?
I recently started testing the Dr. Dennis Gross SpectraLite FaceWare Pro, which includes red (630-nm red and 880-nm infrared) and blue light (415 nm)—or a setting that combines both—and operates within three minutes. The SpectraLite is a little more superhero-esque than Hannibal, and it's more comfortable to wear (the shorter time helps). But it's too early to say whether my results will be any different. The strap is more annoying though, and sometimes comes undone.
Both of these light therapy masks are FDA-cleared, and both companies offer only a 30-day return policy. That's too soon to know whether you'll see any results. Maybe have a plan to sell it at a small discount to a friend after you've tested it for more than a month. These devices are easy to clean and share with multiple people, unlike other skincare devices.
Some handheld devices offer the same functionality for less money than a mask, but be cautious. Wavelength matters. You also need to think about what area you're trying to improve. If it's your under-eyes or your 11 lines (between your eyebrows), a handheld device might work. But if you want a full-face treatment, sitting down every night and making sure a wand touches every part of your face for several minutes will be tiring.
The Solawave is popular. It has a 630-nm red light wavelength and I've found it quite relaxing to use. With the vibration and warmth thrown in with the light, it feels like a full spa experience. Two WIRED staffers have had positive results with skin tightening. One told me the skin around her eye area looked tighter in just a few weeks of use. It's worth noting that this device is not FDA-cleared, but the company's face mask is. I haven't tried it yet.
Effective LED masks are pricey, but if you think you can invest the money and time, it could be a worthy at-home treatment. My skin is particularly picky and doesn't want to cooperate. I'm not ready to throw in the towel on LEDs yet, so I'll keep testing them as I dream of a smooth forehead. Maybe by 31, I'll be glowing.
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