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Front Burner

A New Wine Shop That’s Worth the Trip

Jonas Andersen, the former beverage director for Agern and the Great Northern Food Hall, hopped the Metro-North to open a store in Croton Falls, N.Y.

Jonas Andersen and his wife, Natalie Marie Gehrels, at their new wine shop, Folkways.Credit...Frances F. Denny for The New York Times

Jonas Andersen is tied to train stations. Coming from Grand Central Terminal, where he was the beverage director at Agern and the Great Northern Food Hall, he has just opened Folkways, a wine store in the former Croton Falls, N.Y., railway station. His new shop can take you to some uncommon destinations, with bottles from the Czech Republic and elsewhere in Eastern Europe, and lesser-known grapes like Italian canaiolo and French mauzac blanc. “There are great wines that are traditional in so many places, so why not highlight them?” he said. The shop also carries wine serving objects, books and magazines. Mr. Andersen and his partners — his wife, Natalie Marie Gehrels, and the sommelier Amanda Smeltz — spruced up the building, which had been a wine store for some 70 years.

Folkways Wines, 3 Front Street, Croton Falls, N.Y., 914-276-0116, folkwayswines.com.

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Florence Fabricant is a food and wine writer. She writes the weekly Front Burner and Off the Menu columns, as well as the Pairings column, which appears alongside the monthly wine reviews. She has also written 12 cookbooks. More about Florence Fabricant

A version of this article appears in print on  , Section D, Page 3 of the New York edition with the headline: To Shop: New Wine Shop Is a Destination. Order Reprints | Today’s Paper | Subscribe

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