How to Seattle

A quick Trip Advisor search reveals some of the most popular things to do in the waterfront neighborhood of Ballard: You’ll want to see the Locks (don’t forget the visitors center!), relax at Commodore Park and hit up the Ballard Farmers Market. 

But to dig a little deeper, we asked readers for their favorite spots in Ballard. We crafted their suggestions — a mix of already popular but worth-the-hype destinations and lesser-known gems — into three handy itineraries to help you tour the neighborhood like a local.

A sunny day by (and on) the water

A day outdoors taking in Ballard’s maritime atmosphere can start with a classic that readers believe should top anyone’s list of Seattle destinations: The Ballard (Hiram M. Chittenden) Locks. Known as the busiest in the U.S., these local locks help up to 50,000 vessels pass between Puget Sound and lakes Washington and Union each year, keeping the freshwater bodies about 20 feet above sea level, and are a popular stop for tourists and locals alike. 

“I’m out of [the] country around two weeks a month, and one of my favorite things to do when I return home is walk to the Hiram M. Chittenden Locks,” Ballard resident Brian Quarles said. “No matter the time of year or weather, I always see something different.”

Walking across the Locks, you can zigzag over Salmon Bay, noticing the drastically different water levels on either side, hearing the rush of the channel below and passing by workers in bright safety vests, joggers and bikers, and visitors snapping photos. There are also treasures on both sides of the bay. 

To the south, near Commodore Park, between June and October, the underwater fish ladder lets guests peer through panels of glass to watch migrating salmon pass through. (This time of year, you can learn about local salmon through the indoor exhibits, but you’re not likely to see any live fish.) On the north side, stop by the visitors center and meander through the Carl S. English Jr. Botanical Garden, a peaceful green space with more than 500 plant species. Cherry blossoms and daffodils are on full display this time of year. 

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Then on to a lesser-known outdoor wonder. From the botanical garden, you can walk (20 minutes), bike (five minutes) or drive (five minutes) down Seaview Avenue Northwest to Point Shilshole Beach — or what Ballard resident Lisa Rider calls the Shilshole area’s “little pocket of happiness.” 

The pocket includes, of course, the beach — a short strip of sand as soft and white as what you’ll find in Golden Gardens — with an unobstructed view of the Olympic Mountains. Hidden behind a row of buildings, it’s not quite noticeable from the road, but a narrow dirt path leads you right to it. 

Right across Seaview Avenue Northwest is a trio of shops that create the atmosphere of a funky beach town: the bright pink and teal Caribbean sandwich shop Un Bien, with palm trees out front; Surf Ballard, renting stand-up paddle boards and kayaks; and Shorehouse Coffee and Shaved Ice, a food truck with menu items written on a giant surfboard. 

For those longing to get on the water, the paddle boards and kayaks go for $40 for two hours, and Surf Ballard is open Mondays and Fridays by appointment, and 10 a.m.-6 p.m. Saturdays and Sundays. 

The casual, beachy vibes in this corner of Ballard are charming. However, for a scenic but not-too-stuffy dining experience, readers also recommend Ray’s Boathouse, an elegant, dockside seafood restaurant with the same gorgeous views of Shilshole Bay and sentimental value for many locals. 

“Around 1949, and later, we would go to Ray’s Boathouse while the famous salmon derby was on,” recalled Doug Angell, who grew up in Ballard. “Years later, we enjoy having dinner there.”

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Exploring Ballard’s Scandinavian roots

Starting with another not-to-be-missed Ballard classic, readers praised the National Nordic Museum, reflecting the neighborhood’s deep Scandinavian ties. Head to the modern-looking, bayside building to “browse the exhibits, eat at the cafe, shop in the store or participate in the many activities that are offered,” Ballardite Ingrid Fredrickson suggested. 

According to its website, the museum is “the only institution of its size and scale in the United States to present the history and culture of the entire Nordic region.” In addition to a permanent collection of more than 80,000 arts and history objects, it features a full calendar of rotating exhibitions, which presently includes Ballard-based artist Ginny Ruffner’s “Project Aurora,” a wall of shimmering lights undulating to depict the aurora borealis.

About a five-minute drive away, there’s a less widely known but equally loved-by-locals hub of Scandinavian culture. A sign on the outside of Scandinavian Specialties describes the red building, adorned with a Viking mural and Finnish, Swedish and other flags, as “The Premier Scandinavian Marketplace in the Northwest.” 

Inside, you’ll find all sorts of groceries you get wouldn’t in the average grocery store, from Swedish-style crispbread to Husmor’s fish balls in brine, and a cafe serving up smørbrød (open-face sandwiches) and fiskekaker (fish cakes), desserts, drinks and more. Besides food, browse wool sweaters and hats, books on everything from Viking history to Norwegian baking, plus art, cards and all sorts of gift shop-esque trinkets. 

Magnolia resident Karen Ruud recommends the shop as a first stop in Ballard “for an authentic open-faced sandwich, cakes and pastries, and best house-made pickled herring, fish cakes, and a well stocked selection of cheeses, chocolate, gifts and books.” 

The shop’s been around since 1962, and Chelsea Nesvig remembers visiting it from Tacoma to buy treats for Christmas. “I’ll never forget the smell of herring and fish balls,” Nesvig said. “My parents bought all kinds of meat and Solo (Norwegian orange soda) for upcoming Christmas parties.”

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You might want to save some of your appetite, though. Locals also adore the nearby Larsen’s Original Bakery, which makes Scandinavian baked goods and is celebrating its 50th birthday this year. If the weather’s nice, take your treats to-go and enjoy them outside with a view at either Sunset Hill Park or Golden Gardens Beach.

A night on the town

Once known as a sleepy suburb, Ballard has evolved into a nightlife hub in recent years, as new, hip bars and restaurants pop up alongside some older favorites. Not everyone is a fan of the change, but reader Bill Yeend affectionately describes as it “the contrast of today’s ‘glitz’ with yesterday’s character!’”

Ballard Avenue Northwest is home to a strip of “streateries” — bars and restaurants that offer outdoor seating built out into the street — contributing to a community-oriented, walkable feel. 

King’s Hardware is always a welcome and friendly bar and restaurant but so are all the businesses on the main drag,” Loyal Heights resident Michael Lightfoot said. 

In addition to King’s Hardware, a rustically decorated bar with arcade games and a cozy patio, readers recommended Sloop Tavern, Veraci Pizza, Mike’s Chili Parlor, Kiss Cafe and Hattie’s Hat. Overall, Michele Thornquist loves “Ballard’s diverse and excellent selection of restaurants, bars [and] bakeries.”

Nearby dessert options also abound, with A la Mode Pies, Truffles and a Salt & Straw in the vicinity. Edmonds resident Ron Eber suggests Sweet Mickey’s Candy Shoppe, featuring “all your favorite candies… and the homemade fudge can’t be beat.” 

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To end the night with entertainment, readers endorsed two “old Ballard” venues.

On Northwest Market Street, on a block that’s held numerous cinemas over the years, Majestic Bay Theatres continues the tradition. It opened in 2000 on the same site that once held the older Bay Theater. But the present-day space, our movie critic Moira Macdonald notes, is still “full of old-school charm” with local owners who “pay tribute to the theater’s past in the lobby.”

For live music, check out the 30-year-old Tractor Tavern on Ballard Avenue Northwest, several readers encouraged. The intimate-feeling venue is known for the Americana sound associated with Ballard, and upcoming shows this spring include a John Prine tribute concert and Nashville singer-songwriter Lilly Hiatt. 

In the words of Seattle Times music writer Michael Rietmulder, Ballard institutions like the Tractor “have helped the once grittier enclave maintain more of its old-Seattle flavor.”

Editor’s note: This story was updated March 28 to reflect that Point Shilshole Beach offers views of the Olympic Mountains, rather than the Cascades.