A Napoli Story, Diego Maradona And Serie A Glory

The religion is calcio and the God is Diego.

As I scoured the city streets for an evening espresso I came across a small cafe called ‘Bar Nilo.’ It was draped in memorabilia and even the coffee cups bore the Napoli football crest. Before I could even pretend to speak Italian over the counter, I was taken aback by a spinning light beside the doorway.

It was none other than a lock of Diego Maradona’s hair. Held as a relic in a tiny spinning glass box, presented as part of a shrine to the late great footballer. One of many worshiping places in this town. I had found what I was looking for; a city steeped in history with a strong aroma of football nostalgia. I sipped my espresso, dodged a few scooters, and set off to explore the rest of this town that I had heard so many great things about.

“I only saw my father cry twice: the first when he emerged unscathed from a serious road accident and the second on May 4th 2023.” Gaetano

A year ago this Saturday, on May 4th 2023, Napoli won their first Serie A title for 33 years, and their third of all time. It came thanks to a 1-1 draw away at Udinese. That night, an equaliser from Victor Osimhen was enough to send the city of Naples into a frenzy and claim a title that many worried might never come. Not since the days of Diego Maradona have the people of Naples felt such joy, and for many the first look after the final whistle was one directed to the heavens. For many El Diego was up above, overseeing this holy event.

This town isn’t just the adopted home of El Diego, it is a stunning setting that hugs the Mediterranean coast. It is a city that is connected to the sea in every way, and the ocean and sky are as blue as the famous Napoli home jersey. Put on the map by Maradona; this team has a new generation of heroes now, and despite poor form a year later, they are still celebrated in the streets of Naples, and will be forever.

I had some incredible tour guides in Naples; Alessandro Tione, Daniele Carrano and Gaetano Bastone. These three young creatives all have their own way of documenting this wonderful city, and in particular its football club and how it unifies the people here. They photograph the city streets, murals of Maradona and the wonderful locals that fill this city with life.

They are also fervent followers of Napoli football club and never miss a match. Since they were little boys they have gone to the Diego Armando Maradona Stadium (previously the Stadio San Paolo) every other Sunday with their friends and family, and in 2023 their team rewarded them for their loyalty.

One of the first things we saw whilst exploring the cobbled streets of the old town was bunting that depicted a team lining out in a 4-3-3 shape, but wearing the black and white stripes of Napoli’s biggest rivals Juventus. “What’s all that about?” I asked Alessandro, shocked. “The names on the back of the shirts are all of the referees names,” he laughed. Juventus, famously, were stripped of league titles and relegated because of a bribery scandal.

While I was in Naples I learnt that it offers much more than just a fantastic football experience. The historic site of Pompeii is just down the road, the locals are friendly, the streets are alive, and the food is incredible. Yet, this port-city of pizza heaven rallies around its football team and the legacy left by Diego Maradona more than anything else. The religion is calcio and the God is Diego.

Siege Mentality

Through the eyes of my local friends I became very aware of the fact that this city and its people are unique within Italy. Alessandro, who likes to be known as Alex, told me:

“When we win, it’s not just a win for Napoli, the football team. It’s a win for our city against another city.”

You see, Napoli has been looked down upon since they were stripped of their Kingdom when Italy was unified by Garibaldi back in the 19th century. Every corner of this nation will have their side to the story, but here in Naples it’s pretty clear. For the locals, the powers of the north didn’t extend an olive branch and offer a unification that would benefit all. Instead, they waged war upon Naples, they brought violence to their ancestors and robbed the region of its wealth and resources. Unification doesn’t tell the whole story, and the people of Napoli still feel that today.

Alex explained that the majority of young Neapolitans feel the need to move north for proper job opportunities, that employers will choose somebody from Milan over somebody from Naples even if they hold the same qualification, and that from the fighting of centuries ago to the politics of today, Napoli has always been persecuted and therefore felt different to the rest of Italy.

“I am Italian, but first, I am from Naples” Alex tells me, he wears a ring around his finger which has ‘Napoli’ carved into it. “When we play against some teams from the north, they show flags that say “Welcome to Italy.” No wonder relations are still tense.

When Napoli won their third Scudetto title a year ago, they celebrated victory over their northern neighbours by displaying the crest of the Italian flag upside down. The national symbol is also a badge worn by the reigning Serie A Champions, but by flying the flag upside down the Neoplotians have shown that though they are Champions of Italy, they don’t forget how Italy has treated them.

Furio, a character of Neapolitan blood from the popular series ‘The Sopranos’ might have said “I hate the north,” but neither Alex nor I are suggesting that it is quite that black and white. Some in the south might indeed “hate the north” and others might not be quite as interested. However this city, unlike most others, clearly has a unique relationship with its own state that is recognised by more or less everybody you come across.

In 2023 the Italian national team played their first game in Naples for around a decade. For many this was welcome, and if anything they were annoyed it had taken so long for the Azzurri to recognise Naples as home.

During the 1990 World Cup, Diego Maradona led out Argentina against Italy, in Naples, for a World Cup semi-final. At the time media outlets drummed up that all Neapolitans were completely against the Italian national team, and indeed El Diego himself had openly tried to convince local fans to support Argentina.

In the end some did and some didn’t. Mixed reports and support on that night, however exaggerated, haven’t served to endear Neapolitans to their northern brothers. Italian media used the the rumours and doubt as another stick to beat the “unpatriotic” people of Naples with.

History, mixed with the economic and social symptoms that it has presented the city of Naples with, has created a siege mentality amongst its people. What better way to channel that fury, feeling and passion, than through the medium of football, shouting for Napoli against the traditional giants of the north.

Santo Diego: The Patron Saint

Now that we have covered the historical context briefly, let's talk about the man that brought everything together in this city. The man from Buenos Aires who through a crescendo of footballing grace and boisterous behaviour, became a spokesperson and a saviour for the people of Naples.

Diego Maradona arrived at Napoli from Barcelona in 1984. At that stage the club had never won a major European trophy or a Serie A Italian league title. Fastforward to 1990 and the Argentinian had brought two Serie A titles to the city as well as a European title in the form of the UEFA iShares MSCI EAFE ETF Cup, and even a Coppa Italia and Supercoppa for good measure.

Alex told me that those not interested in football or those that were perhaps fans of other teams, all bought season tickets during the Diego years and flocked to watch Napoli’s famous number 10.

“Maradona in Naples is like a human God. He came down to earth to be on the side of the weakest, the Argentines, his people, and Naples, his second city. His actions to help Argentina win the World Cup, with revenge on the English, and Napoli win two championships against the northern powers, will be remembered forever. Just walk around the cities of Naples or Buenos Aires and you’ll realise that Maradona's face is present on all of the walls,” says Gaetano.

My hosts in Naples all document their city through some incredible photography and regular interactions with other locals. Everyone has a story about El Diego here. Alex took me to one particularly fascinating place in the centre of Naples’ old town. A car mechanic where large sections of the garage walls are completely covered in old newspaper clippings from the Maradona years.

The same family that owned the place in the late 80’s still tell stories of El Diego today. The Maradona mural hunter himself, Alex, said that this fine establishment is like so many others. Napoli is like an open canvas, a shrine to its most famous (adopted) son.

“Maradona was politically active, he never shied away from saying the right thing and defending the poorest. This will never be forgotten by the Neapolitans, who will make Diego their God on earth forever,” continues Gaetano.

For some, Maradona might have been seen as a populist who didn’t perhaps practice what he preached, but for the masses in Argentina and Naples, this man was a voice when they had no other; one who would speak out for their struggle and draw attention to the social and political plight of their people.

Maradona was caught between a rock and a hard place off the pitch in Naples. The boy from the villa (favela) of Buenos Aires, found himself in Naples at the height of Camorra power. The mafia of Naples and Maradona became involved with each other and as Diego frequented their establishments, receiving gifts along the way, they profited from his name and image.

“I do not like the way his figure is exploited commercially.” Daniele says, “and without taking anything away from him; Naples isn’t just Maradona. We have a city rich in history, culture and art like few others, but I would love to have known Diego.”

Maradona became well known for his off-pitch acts of charity in Napoli too, often supporting local causes and underprivileged kids. He spoke about his background as a boy from the shantytown, and how he wanted to be the hero for the poor people of Naples. Diego and Napoli were a match made in heaven, one that was always going to work, and one that would resonate way beyond football.

“That whole North v South battle made me stronger. I like to fight for a cause. And if it’s the cause of the poor, all the better.” said Maradona in his autobiography.

Diego was offended by the “Welcome to Italy” banners that northern opponents greeted Napoli fans with, and now locals like Alex, Daniele and Gaetano feel the same way. It’s no wonder that city centre murals portray Diego as an angel from above watching over the town and calling for the next Serie A title. Therefore it's also no surprise that a whole city dedicated the 2023 triumph to ‘Santo Diego’ himself. Let’s not forget, if it wasn’t for Maradona, Napoli probably never would have won a first national title all those years ago, never mind a second or third.

Napoli 2023 - Campione d'Italia

Daniele: “I remember every hug in the Curva B with people who were strangers at the beginning of the year, but part of the family at the end of it. I remember the tears at the final whistle of the Udinese game. I will never forget it.”

Angel Diego might have been looking down from above, but a fine Napoli squad led by Luciano Spalletti still needed to win the 2022/23 Serie A on the pitch; and they did so at a canter. Hence this title was won towards the start of May and not the end of the month when the season finishes.

Napoli won 21 of their opening 24 league fixtures last season as they raced towards a third national title. Their heroes were talented Georgian winger Khvicha Kvaratskhelia and talismanic Nigerian forward Victor Osimhen. The pair managed 38 league goals between them and were undoubtedly the key players in the team's historic success.

They couldn’t have done it alone though, and Spalletti put together a side that wasn’t exactly full of world-class players, but one capable of supporting their top creators whilst balancing the team at the back. The side managed 14 clean sheets in their opening 27 league games and with that, they had the trophy unofficially wrapped up by the end of March.

Spalletti has since left and become the coach of the Italian national side, and Napoli have failed epically in defending their title. Such was the let-off in this city last May, that doesn’t matter too much though. However it does show how key their coach was last season. As well as playing to his team's strengths, Spalletti seemed to galvanise some of the squad's fringe players into performing above the level that many believed they were capable of.

Giovanni Simeone scored nine goals in all competitions and Kim Min-jae was named Serie A player of the month as early as September in his debut season in Italy. Whilst the likes of Piotr Zieliński and André-Frank Zambo Anguissa showed performances in midfield, the likes of which they had never displayed before.

From the Meditteranean coast to New York City, the Neaoplitan community danced in the streets on May 4th 2023, and for days and weeks after that too. The glimmering prize that so often resides in the northern regions of Piedmont and Lombardy, was theirs again for the first time since 1990.

Gaetano says “A 33 year long wait. Honestly, I had given up on the idea of ever being able to see Napoli win the scudetto. I was convinced that it would only remain a story told to me by my father.”

“The city experienced a "Renaissance”. Tourists from all over the world were here just to be able to experience a minute of what was one of the most awaited festivals in southern Italy in recent years.”

What’s next for Napoli?

It shouldn’t be too shocking that Napoli have dipped from the dizzy heights of one year ago, it was after all, an achievement that nobody was expecting. 33 years without a Serie A title brings a type of relief that means you don’t necessarily worry about tomorrow. Having said that, this is a passionate fanbase that wants more moments like May 4th 2023, and they certainly don’t want to wait another 33 years for the next national title.

Club owner Aurelio De Laurentiis is not famous for his calm and controlled leadership. He has had plenty of success at the helm with Napoli, but plenty of failure too. Few were impressed at him appointing Rudi Garcia to replace Spalletti this season, he was soon sacked. Fewer were impressed at him appointing old boss Walter Mazzarri afterwards, and he was sacked even faster.

The current Napoli coach is also the Slovakia national team manager; Francesco Calzona, and I think it's fair to say everybody would be shocked if he was still in the hot seat come the end of the summer. With titans like Inter Milan and Juventus, plus the rise of relative minnows like Atalanta and Bologna, Napoli face incredible competition to get back to the summit of Italian football, and it currently looks like they will fail to qualify for any type of continental football next year.

“We have lived far too much on memories, Naples deserves more, European titles… Scudetti” Daniele continues.

“The chairman De Laurentiis declared that Napoli will win the championship again within 3-4 years and that the next objective for the next 10 years will be the Champions League. As fans, ambition is so important, but I'm skeptical about winning the Champions League” Gaetano follows.

This season I had the pleasure of watching Napoli defeat Juventus at home in the Serie A. Apart from just being a victory against a big team, this was a victory against a big northern team, remember? A victory for the city, and you could sense that in the air.

Unfortunately for Napoli those victories have been few and far between lately, but last year's success has put the club back on the map, and into the global interest again for the first time since the days of Diego. Napoli is home to some of the best food, weather and people in Europe, but it's also home to some of football's most iconic moments. Let’s hope there are still more stories to be written here, and that more history is waiting in the future.