This low-alcohol $14 malbec is lighter in calories but big on flavor

This week’s wine recommendations feature an entry into the low-alcohol movement from a leading organic producer in Argentina, a popular pinot grigio from mountain vineyards in northern Italy and a stunning riesling from Napa Valley.

GREAT VALUE

Domaine Bousquet LOCA Malbec

(2 stars)

Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, $14

LOCA, the Spanish word for crazy, is a mashup of Low Calorie and Low Alcohol, as this wine clocks in at a relatively modest 9.5 percent alcohol and 79 calories per five ounces, about two-thirds the usual amount. To be honest, when I want to reduce my calorie and alcohol intake, I just stretch a bottle over a few nights or skip wine altogether for a few days. That said, this wine and its sister chardonnay deliver what they promise: fresh, crisp, with a quality oenogeeks call “crunchy” — wines that taste like malbec and chardonnay, though a bit underripe. There’s apparently no wizardry to the wine: The grapes are simply harvested two months earlier than usual, when the flavors have developed but not the sugars that add body, depth and alcohol. The wines are not vintage-dated, but lot numbers starting with 23 suggest they come from that year’s harvest. Domaine Bousquet also checks all the progressive boxes: The wines are USDA certified organic (no added sulfites), Ecocert organic, Certified B Corporation, and certified vegan, gluten-free, and something else my eyes can’t make out. Ingredient and nutritional labeling are also included, as well as a QR code that will take you to the winery website so you don’t have to squint so much. Alcohol by volume: 9.5 percent. Bottle weight: 400 grams (Light).

Imported by Origins Organic. Distributed locally by Opici. Sold nationally in Natural Grocers and Total Wine & More.

GREAT VALUE

Barone Fini Pinot Grigio 2022

(2.5 stars)

Val d’Adige, Italy, $15

High-elevation mountain vineyards give this widely available, popular pinot grigio grip and depth. Flavors tend toward crisp apples and pears, with a hint of straw and wild herbs. It’s an ideal wine for antipasti or casual meals. ABV: 12.5 percent. BW: 430 grams (Light).

Imported by Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. Distributed locally by RNDC.

Smith-Madrone Riesling 2019

(4 stars)

Spring Mountain District, Napa Valley, Calif., $40

Fans of old-style Napa Valley wines know Smith-Madrone, and fans of riesling know that this winery perched high on the slopes of Spring Mountain in the northern stretch of Napa Valley makes one of this country’s best. Citrus — orange, pomelo, grapefruit — floats from the glass and dances around your palate. What’s amazing about this wine, though, is the structure: It made me sit up straight and pay attention. It seemed to be pulling its essence from the depths of Spring Mountain and pouring it into my glass. Smith-Madrone also makes compelling chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon. If you find them, snap them up. The winery did not release any 2020 wines because of the Glass Fire that ravaged Spring Mountain and threatened its vineyards right at harvest. ABV: 13.3 percent. BW: 530 grams (Average).

Distributed locally by DOPS and Virginia Imports.

Prices are approximate. For availability, check Wine.com, Wine-searcher.com and the websites and social media feeds of the wineries, importers, distributors, and your favorite local wine store. You can also ask your local retailer to order wines from the distributors listed. Bottle weight is included, because this is the single most important contributor to wine’s carbon footprint. Have wine questions for Dave McIntyre? Send them to Food@washpost.com.

Legend

★ Good: The wine delivers what it promises at a fair price. If it says chardonnay, it tastes like chardonnay.

★★ Excellent: A wine with character and added interest. May elevate your eyebrows at the first sip.

★★★ Extraordinary: An exciting wine that stands out from others in its class. Fist-pumping, table-thumping good.

★★★★ Sublime: Otherworldly. May have you thinking, “So this is what they were talking about.”