Because I don’t do a critical review of the food I eat at the restaurants I suggest to you, it allows me to offer advice and counsel to a new place if I think it has potential but needs some time to mature. When I return to see if has grown, it either makes the cut or it doesn’t.
For example, I went to a beautiful new restaurant in a great location and found everything wrong. I mean everything — including the host, slightly frozen muffins, cold food and weak, warm coffee. I asked to speak to the manager, introduced myself and told her what I witnessed and experienced.
She was grateful that I cared enough to help, took notes and thanked me. I will go back and see what has changed. I hope for the sake of the restaurant and the staff that it lives up to its promise. Of course I’ll share it with you if it does.
In the meantime, this month’s terrific three will not disappoint. One is a new spot for a Chicago restaurant veteran, the other a bold cafe in Portage Park and the third a place I had passed by often until finally trying it based on word-of-mouth praise.
Enjoy!
Interurban Boathouse
Chef Christine McCabe has come out of the alley and into a bright and inviting place. Let me explain. After years of working in high-end kitchens, McCabe in 2012 opened a walk-up window selling pastries, sandwiches and soup in the alley off Armitage Street at Halsted Street. I’m not kidding.
Many times I double-parked, risking irate drivers and a ticket, to get her version of Pop-Tarts or a flaky morning bun.
Finally in March, in a sit-down restaurant right next to the north branch of the Chicago River, with a nautical theme that stems from her love of sailing, and a menu that hits every craving, McCabe found her home at last. I asked her why the menu was so broad for all three meals and she had the perfect response, “I love making all these things!”
Could I pass up a sweet potato baked with yogurt, pecans, roasted apple and maple? How about the blueberry pancakes that are a cross between the fluffy type and a crepe and have real lemon curd on top? Did you think I could resist the Japanese shredded vegetable pancake with an egg on top and drizzled with a glorious hoisin barbecue sauce?
No, no and no.
Did I leave with her Pop-Tarts-style pastry?
Yes, yes and yes.
Of note: Breakfast served until 5 p.m., Sundays all day, free parking lot (steps from the lot but accessible from front door), full service, full bar, catering.
Find it: 1438 W. Cortland Ave., 773-698-7739, interurbanchicago.com.
Hours: 8 a.m.-9 p.m. Monday to Thursday, 8 a.m.-10 p.m. Friday and Saturday, 8 a.m.-3 p.m. Sunday.
The Frunchroom charcuterie board recently featured, clockwise from upper right, house cream cheese, pastrami-smoked salmon, cured sardines, chicken liver mousse, duck prosciutto, Andalusian chorizo and assorted pickles.
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The Frunchroom charcuterie board recently featured, clockwise from upper right, house cream cheese, pastrami-smoked salmon, cured sardines, chicken liver mousse, duck prosciutto, Andalusian chorizo and assorted pickles.
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The Frunchroom charcuterie board recently featured, clockwise from upper right, house cream cheese, pastrami-smoked salmon, cured sardines, chicken liver mousse, duck prosciutto, Andalusian chorizo and assorted pickles.
Frunchroom
I could eat here every day because the food is so good and because the menu is so varied that it feels like an around-the-world cruise.
But I was here for breakfast, so let’s start there.
When you walk through the door of Frunchroom in Portage Park, you already know it isn’t just a long narrow cafe with standard fare. The artwork, the colors, the brightness and the warm welcome set it apart right away.
Seating is on both sides of the room and the counter is at the far end. Pick up a menu in the box right next to the entrance and then look at the chalkboard over the counter so you don’t miss the house-made charcuterie, smoked fishes or cheese choices.
We ordered five things from the daily selection, which filled the wooden board and included trout salad, chicken liver mousse, finocchiona and chorizo, which were salami-style slices, and pastrami-smoked salmon. The accompaniments were stone-ground mustard, pickled radishes, peppers and slightly spicy apricots, homemade cream cheese and toast.
We also ordered the egg sandwich on a soft square roll, which was filled with spinach, feta, vine tomatoes and salsa verde and an egg.
As if that wasn’t enough, the polenta triangles on pesto with ricotta and fresh English peas put us over the top.
In the interest of full disclosure, we did share a caramel milkshake — because Zarlengo’s! The locally made gelato is featured in the drink.
Of note: Fast-casual, breakfast sandwiches served until 11 a.m., metered street parking, BYOB (with house-made bloody mary mix and orange juice available).
Find it: 4042 N. Milwaukee Ave., 773-853-2160, frunchroomchicago.com.
Hours: 8 a.m.-3 p.m. Tuesday to Friday, 9 a.m.-2 p.m. Saturday and Sunday.
Coffee Joint
Once again, a place I’ve passed way too often during the winter, when it opened, called to me because I had heard people speak of this Irving Park “coffee shop” using superlatives.
Located on a corner with window seating and high-top tables along the wall, Coffee Joint had an inviting feel, especially after the barista looked up immediately and welcomed me.
I ordered a latte, the lox sandwich and the mozzarella and basil sandwich. There was only one empty seat in the front window by the door, and as soon as he noticed I use a cane, the barista came out from behind the counter, secured an unused chair and set me up at the far end of the counter where my food was being made.
It’s called the hospitality industry for a reason, and he embodied it.
I watched him craft (a word I rarely use) the latte. His care and timing and focus was almost zen. The proof is that my drink was heavenly and deeply satisfying.
Watching my sandwiches being made gave me that same feeling.
High-quality bread was a good start. The surprise was that the mozzarella wasn’t just mozzarella, it was burrata, which joined with the toasted bread and basil, softened and required total attention.
Good cream cheese, fresh smoked salmon, tomatoes and capers hit the spot.
I asked the barista to cut each in half and wrap the other halves to go, which he did with glee. “Oh, for later?”
You bet.
Of note: Fast-casual, metered street parking.
Find it: 2059 W. Irving Park Road, 773-629-1725, coffeejoint.com.
Hours: 7 a.m.-6 p.m. Monday to Friday, 8 a.m.-6 p.m. Saturday and Sunday.
Ina Pinkney, aka The Breakfast Queen, owned iconic West Loop breakfast spot Ina’s for more than 30 years and now writes “Breakfast with Ina” monthly for Food & Dining.
