Thrilling Hoppers and Curries at Lankan Filling Station

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At Lankan Filling Station, in Sydney, Sri Lankan food is put into a trendy urban context with all the necessary accouterments: cocktails, natural wine and a narrow, moodily lit, crowded room that thrums with energy.

Rachel Kara Ashton for The New York Times

Thrilling Hoppers and Curries at Lankan Filling Station

The Sydney restaurant is writing a new chapter in what Sri Lankan cuisine means here and now.