Brown shrimp tagliolini with seaweed butter. — Bancone’s brown shrimp tagliolini with seaweed butter. Photograph: Ola O Smit/The Guardian. Food styling: Ellie Mulligan. Prop styling: Louie Waller.

Four winter pasta recipes from the kitchens of Bancone

Lamb ragù pappardelle, shrimp tagliolini with seaweed butter, chestnut tagliatelle and a novel way to cook lasagne sheets

Brown shrimp tagliolini with seaweed butter (pictured above)

Prep 10 min
Cook 35 min
Serves 4, generously

1 sheet dried nori seaweed
1 glass white wine
50ml white-wine vinegar
1 shallot, peeled and very finely chopped
50ml double cream
250g butter, cubed
Salt and black pepper
1 small handful fresh samphire (or, if you can get them, sea fennel leaves)
1 tbsp olive oil
1 garlic clove, peeled and finely chopped
150g brown shrimps
500g fresh tagliolini, or any other long, thin pasta

Snap the nori into pieces, then blitz to a fine powder in a blender. Put half the wine, the vinegar and the shallot in a small saucepan on a low heat, and leave to simmer until reduced by half. Add the cream and reduce by half again. Slowly whisk in the butter a cube at a time – no more, or the sauce may split. Once all the butter is mixed in, season to taste, pass through a fine sieve and keep at just above room temperature.

Blanch the samphire in a small pan of unsalted boiling water for a few seconds, then plunge into ice-cold water.

Gently heat the olive oil in a small frying pan, then sweat the garlic until soft, but not coloured. Stir in the shrimps and the rest of the wine, cook until the liquid reduces by half, then turn off the heat and cover with a lid.

Cook the pasta in boiling salted water for two to three minutes, then drain, reserving three or four tablespoons of the cooking liquid. Stir the shrimp mixture into the butter sauce, then pour over the pasta and toss; if need be, loosen the sauce with a little cooking water to ensure the emulsion isn’t too heavy. Add the seaweed powder, toss again, and season to taste. Garnish with the samphire and serve immediately.

The Guardian aims to publish recipes for fish rated as sustainable by the Marine Conservation Society’s Good Fish Guide.

Lamb ragù pappardelle

Prep 10-15 min
Cook 4-5 hr
Serves 4, generously

2 large bunches fresh rosemary, leaves picked
2 garlic cloves, peeled
4 anchovy fillets, drained
150ml condimento morbido or white balsamic vinegar
1 lamb neck on the bone (about 1kg)
Salt and black pepper
2 tbsp plain flour
3 tbsp vegetable oil
1 splash white wine
Up to 500ml good-quality chicken stock
500g fresh pappardelle (or tagliatelle), or 400g dried
3 tbsp good olive oil
Grated pecorino, to serve

Put the rosemary, garlic, anchovies and condimento morbido in a food processor and blitz to a green sauce – it should look like a very loose pesto.

Generously season the lamb neck, dust all over with flour and pat off any excess. In a large, heavy-based casserole, bring the vegetable oil up to a high heat, then lay in the lamb neck and sear, turning regularly, until golden brown all over – about five minutes. Add the wine, stir to deglaze, then cook until the liquid evaporates.

Pour over the green sauce, then add enough stock just to cover the meat. Bring to a boil, turn down to the lowest possible heat and leave to simmer for four to five hours, until the meat is falling off the bone.

Leave to cool in the cooking liquid – this will stop it drying out – then lift the neck from the pan and pull the meat off the bone with your hands, flaking it as you go and checking for bone fragments; discard the bones. Return the meat to the pot and gently warm through.

Bring a large saucepan of well-salted water to a boil, then cook the pasta for two to three minutes, until just al dente. Use tongs to transfer the pasta to the ragù pot, then toss, adding the olive oil and a little of the pasta cooking water (or hot chicken stock), until the sauce emulsifies and coats the pasta. Serve with grated pecorino.

‘Silk handkerchiefs’ with walnut butter and confit egg yolk

Prep 1 hr (inc eggs)
Cook 15 min
Serves 4

250ml vegetable oil
4 egg yolks
3 packets fresh supermarket lasagne – you’ll need 24 sheets
A few dashes condimento morbido, or white-wine vinegar, to taste
100g walnuts, shelled, toasted and finely chopped
20g grated parmesan
200g unsalted butter

Bring the oil to 65C using a thermometer, and ensure it doesn’t get higher than this. Carefully drop in the egg yolks, and leave to cook for 45 minutes to an hour to reach the consistency of a very soft-boiled egg yolk.

Cut the lasagne sheets into 12.5cm squares (handkerchiefs). Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a rolling boil, drop in the pasta and cook for two to three minutes, until al dente.

In a frying pan, create an emulsion by mixing a few tablespoons of the cooking water, butter and vinegar, taking care that it doesn’t split.

Lift the pasta from its cooking water and add to the pan with the chopped walnuts, reserving a few for garnish, and toss until the pasta is generously coated in the emulsion.

Put a little grated cheese in the base of four serving bowls, then lay in six pasta sheets on top, folding them over so they gently nudge each other and overlap.

Put an egg yolk in the centre of the pasta, sprinkle over more cheese and the reserved walnuts, and serve.

Tagliatelle with chestnuts and chervil

Prep 5 min
Cook 40 min
Serves 4, generously

Good olive oil
5 shallots, peeled and finely chopped
1 glug dry white wine
500g peeled chestnuts
1 small bunch fresh chervil, or parsley
Good vegetable stock
Salt and black pepper
500g fresh tagliatelle, or 400g dried (use-egg-free pasta to make the dish vegan)

Gently heat two tablespoons of olive oil in a large, heavy-based pot, then add the shallots and cook, stirring regularly, until softened but not coloured.

Add a splash of wine, cook until the alcohol evaporates, then stir in the chestnuts – reserve three or four to garnish. Pour in enough vegetable stock just to cover, then leave to simmer for 20 minutes, until the chestnuts start to break down and the liquid has reduced by a third. Tip the sauce into a food processor or blender, blitz to a smooth, creamy paste and season to taste. Finely chop the chervil, reserving a few sprigs for garnish.

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil, and cook the pasta for two to three minutes, until just al dente. Meanwhile, reheat the chestnut paste on a low heat, taking care it doesn’t boil or catch.

Use tongs to lift the cooked pasta from the water and into the chestnut sauce, then toss with the chopped chervil and a small splash of wine. Add a tablespoon or two of oil and a small ladle of the cooking water, and toss again until the sauce emulsifies and coats the pasta.

Check for seasoning, garnish with the reserved chestnuts and chervil, and serve at once – with or without grated parmesan, according to taste.

Recipes by Louis Korovilas, head chef, Bancone, London WC2

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