Exploring Fiji’s Main Island, Viti Levu

The country of Fiji is made up of more than 300 islands, only a third of which are inhabited. The largest island, Viti Levu, is referred to as the mainland, with about 70% of the population based here. While there are many beach hotels and resorts on the mainland that are perfect for your next vacation, exploring the communities of Viti Levu is also a good way to immerse yourself in Fijian culture.

Our first stop was the Sofitel Fiji Resort & Spa, just a 20-minute drive from Nadi Airport and worlds away in ambiance. We checked into the Waitui Beach Club wing of the property, a new adults-only section with a dedicated pool, restaurant and bar.

The property has a strong culinary focus, including an on-site craft cocktail mixologist, Clement Cujus, who is from Toulouse, France but came to Fiji by way of Scotland. Cujus, who prefers to think of himself as a “cocktail chef,” has transformed the cocktail program with his seemingly infinite selection of house-infused rums. He starts with a base of local Fiji rum and meticulously infuses each with scientific precision, and he’s curated a vast list of cocktails for Suka, the property’s bar right on the beach. My favorite was an orange- and cardamon-infused dark rum with apple-papaya juice, lime, ginger syrup, and aquafaba (the chickpea-derived liquid that allows for vegan foam).

The restaurant at Waitui Beach Club turns into a fine-dining venue at night, with beautifully prepared local fish and a good selection of wines by the bottle from Australia and New Zealand.

Recently renovated rooms in the club wing are spacious and comfortably and simply furnished in neutral tones. Again, these are adult-only rooms, separated from the main resort by a walking path. This adult wing is designed as a more serene area than the main section of the resort, which is, of course, family-friendly.

After a good night’s sleep and a chance to adjust to the local time zone (GMT+12), we headed off for the Shangri-La’s Fijian Resort & Spa, technically on the private island of Yanuca but connected to the mainland via a short bridge.

The Reef Wing is the property’s adult-only section, with low-rise structures on a grassy lawn overlooking a tranquil stretch of beach. The property has 109 acres, so you can really feel like you’re on your own private island with just a short stroll. There’s a dedicated check-in for the Reef Wing and easy access to the rest of the property — restaurants, shops, and spa — within a 10-minute walk or even shorter golf cart ride.

The spa, in particular is a destination unto itself, with private bure treatment rooms for each guest, some on the ocean and some tucked into the rainforest.

The warmth of the staff, many of whom live on the property, is palpable. We were serenaded on both arrival and departure by the whole team, with singing, drumming and guitar — a truly moving experience that brought a genuine feeling of connection. Roaming the grounds at the Shangri-La feels a bit like being in the film The Garden of the Finzi-Continis — saturating, satiating, enveloping.

Don’t miss the chance to boat up the river with Sigatoka River Safari, an immersion experience in a remote village, where you can participate in a kava ceremony and have lunch with tribe members. The Shangri-La facilitates these tours for all interested guests.

If you’re seeking all-out luxury and world-class service, look no further than the Intercontinental Fiji Golf Resort & Spa, a comprehensive resort experience that includes a club-level option with both adult-only and kid-friendly components. This property gets everything right, from the personalized service (with a butler, if you like) to two champion baristas, a fine-dining restaurant (Navo) with bespoke menus, and a wine expert, Bjoern Noeldner, who will knock your socks off with his perfect wine pairings.

Set on Natadola Bay, the Intercon, as it’s lovingly called, has the best beach on the mainland, a perfect white-sand crescent with the river flowing in from the east and great snorkeling just steps off the shore.

While the Intercontinental brand is known more in the U.S. as a good choice for business travelers, the resort side offers the pinnacle of luxury for vacationers. The property is spread out across the beach and up the hillside, and the club is set at the top of the hill. It offers breakfast and snacks throughout the day, a club-only pool that is kid-friendly, and an adults-only cocktail hour each evening. This indoor-outdoor perch is the place to watch the sun set each evening.

You can be as active or meditative as you like here. The staff can arrange all manner of outings, from jet skiing to Robinson Crusoe Island to attending a church service in the neighboring village of Sanasana. I thoroughly enjoyed a cooking class with Chef Kalesi, where we learned to make bhajia, vegetarian Indian fritters.

One-bedroom club-level suites are 1237 square-feet, with either an outdoor bathtub or a plunge pool. The sitting room is large enough for entertaining, as is the terrace.

The Intercontinental spa is an otherworldly experience for its ability to transport you to a space of deepest relaxation. Make your own salt scrub, choose a hydrating facial, or go for a traditional Fijian massage — whatever your druthers, spa attendants are attuned to your every need.

Whether you’re interested in proximity to the airport, a culinary focus and an adult-only club pool (Sofitel Fiji Resort & Spa), a private-island resort with the friendliest staff, a dedicated oceanfront club wing and private spa bures (Shangri-La Fijian Resort & Spa), or a comprehensive luxury experience of world-class quality (Intercontinental Fiji Golf Resort & Spa), there’s a mainland Fiji vacation for you.