If what happens in Vegas really stays in Vegas, then there’d be no worry of bringing COVID-19 back home after your southern Nevada getaway. Alas, the famous slogan doesn’t apply to contagious diseases.
That’s why the novel coronavirus pandemic is no joke even in a city crawling in comedy clubs, not that anyone can take in a show just yet. But after months of being uncharacteristically lifeless, the vast majority of casinos, hotels, restaurants and stores are back in business downtown and along the Strip.
In order for these establishments to stay open, workers and a gradually reviving number of visitors must follow strict guidelines to help lower the risk of exposure and spread. The wearing of masks and constant handwashing are part of that, as it is pretty much everywhere else in the world, but like so much of Las Vegas, sanitation measures are over the top.
The Venetian Resort has even branded its cleanliness and operational protocols, calling these 800 initiatives “Venetian Clean.” A semi-germophobic travel writer was impressed during his visit the other week.
Cleansing itself of a cruel summer is what the city is hoping to do with the arrival of autumn. The perennial second-most popular U.S. destination after New York saw fewer than half the visitations as the same period in 2019. The Las Vegas Convention & Visitors Authority also reported that tourism was down 70.5 percent in June when many hotel-casinos were operational for the first time since mid-March. It’s been a half-year since darkness fell on Las Vegas, but like a gambler ending a losing streak, the city is making a comeback.
Vegas goes all-in
From downtown to the famous “Welcome to Fabulous Las Vegas” sign on the Strip’s southern end, seekers of fun and fortune not waiting for 2021 to arrive will find a bonanza of the new and approved.
When the 35-story Circa partially opens on Oct. 28, it will be the first resort built from the ground up in downtown in 40 years. The former site of the Las Vegas Club and Mermaids Casino will be loaded with milestones besides boasting the tallest building downtown at 458 feet.
As CEO and developer Derek Stevens shared in a sit-down across the street at the city’s oldest hotel and casino, the Golden Gate that he also owns along with The D (formerly Sundance and Fitzgerald’s), Circa will have the world’s largest sportsbook where 1,000 people can watch games on a 78 million-pixel high-def screen; a 5,000-square-foot Stadium Swim amphitheater made up of six pools, a 41-foot-tall LED screen and private cabanas; a two-level casino; the longest indoor bar in Nevada and largest outdoor bar under the electric Fremont Street Experience; and it’s adults only. The skyline-enhancing 777-unit tower isn’t scheduled to open until Dec. 28, and when it does a maximum of 512 rooms and suites will be occupied due to COVID-19 restrictions.
Four blocks away from Circa, just off colorful Fremont, the 7-year-old Downtown Grand Hotel & Casino has just added a third tower, the first not a legacy of the long-gone Lady Luck. The Gallery Tower, opened earlier this month, nearly doubles the hotel’s room count to 1,124 units and enhances the boutiquey feel of the property with its decidedly hip interior design and much-needed new main entrance with valet parking.
Stylishly quirky elements abound, but it’s hard to beat the 112 Virtual Pad Rooms that in any other hotel would have a bummer of a view due to the windows looking out onto a wall. But tap on the provided iPad and, voila, you’ve got a state-of-the-art interactive augmented reality in-room experience. Rates run as low as $60 a night for these units. Gotta love downtown. Across the street is the hotel’s Triple George Grill, a dead and tasty ringer for San Francisco’s Tadich Grill, the oldest, continuously run restaurant in California.
Between downtown and the heart of the Strip is a soaring property that completed a $140 million renovation and rebranding only to have COVID-19 burst its balloon two months later. At least there’s a milestone anniversary coming up for the former Stratosphere, now officially called The STRAT. Graced by its signature 1,149-foot-high tower, the tallest freestanding observation structure in the nation, the property is looking spiffy ahead of its 25-year anniversary. What hasn’t changed is the view from the 107SkyLounge — still the highest spot in the city to have a drink.
Even higher and newer is Savory Bites & Neon Lights, a progressive dinner tour that’s oh so Vegas. Maverick Helicopters and Lip Smacking Foodie Tours have cooked up a high-flying fine-dining experience that takes the hungry and heights-loving to four top restaurants. Featuring fare at The Cosmopolitan, the epicurean itinerary launched only last week. After getting their fill, patrons become passengers as it’s off to the heliport and the wild, black yonder for a nighttime spin over the bright lights of the landmark-dotted city. Flights with bites start at $299 per person.
Back on the ground, Nevada’s first Din Tai Fung will be the nation’s largest when it opens on ARIA Resort’s casino floor on Oct. 19, a three-month delay due to you-know-what. The future 430-seat dumpling and noodle hotspot will have a maximum capacity of 212 for now. Despite the reduced capacity, Executive Chef Chen-Wei Chan is still predicting 5,000 Xiao long bao being rolled and stuffed daily in his happily harried show kitchen.
More Asian-influenced delights are found at celebrity chef David Chang’s Majordomo Meat & Fish inside Palazzo. The original is in LA’s Chinatown, and even though it won’t overshadow Chang’s monstrously successful Momofuku brand, one of Vegas’ most exciting new eateries holds its own with exceptional roasted black cod and steaks that neighboring diners were thrilled with. “The Major Doughnut” prepared tableside is a signature dessert consisting of pan-fried Krispy Kreme doughnuts, vanilla ice cream, banana flambe and caramel whip.
Over at the sister Venetian is the poolside Spritz Restaurant & Bar, which debuted on the day of the resort’s reopening in June. The breakfast and lunch menus borrow from other 50 Eggs Hospitality Group restaurants including the perfect coating for the chicken tenders; the recipe is from Yardbird Southern Table located elsewhere on the resort and in LA’s Beverly Center. More SoCal influence is found in the toothsome avocado toast; the yummy apricot-charcoal bread is flown in daily from Boulangerie de Paris in Boyle Heights. Oh, and their soft serve Dole pineapple whip? Better than Disneyland’s, and comes in strawberry and swirl, too.
The show must not go on
Pianists, DJs and weekend soloists where food is served are nice, but for Las Vegas to reclaim the moniker of “Entertainment Capital of the World,” big shows in big venues must return. Until the governor gives the green light on spotlights, the city is doing its best to give ‘em the old razzle dazzle.
Even without “O” by Cirque du Soleil performing nightly, Bellagio offers a strong mix of entertainment. The iconic fountains are flowing again at least every half hour, and even better, those watery shows can be seen through the windows of the Mayfair Supper Club where actual live musicians, singers and dancers perform in a swanky private club-like setting. The blues and swing numbers go down smooth between top-notch bites and sips.
Live DJs groove at Lily Bar & Lounge while pianists tickle the ivories at the recently renovated Petrossian Bar. For serene amusement, the autumn display in the Conservatory, themed “Into the Woods,” debuted recently. Behind the magical forest inhabited with floral creatures is a restaurant that can easily be overlooked. Sadelle’s serves up Big Apple signature breakfasts and lunches including the best eggs benedict and bagels in town.
Two attractions that are exciting for different reasons are the month-old Undersea Explorer VR Theater at Mandalay Bay — audiences stay dry going on 6-minute dives with sharks or humpback whales after visiting real-life marine animals at Shark Reef Aquarium — and the spanking-new Area 15, which has potential to become Las Vegas’ most wondrous entertainment center ever.
By the Sept. 17 grand opening, the cover-free, 230,000-square-foot immersive playground one mile west of the Strip had a smattering of tenants ready to welcome the curious. There’s a VR flying experience, the country’s first indoor, electric dual-track suspension ride, a sweet shop, a multi-room montage of digital artistry and techno music, lots of nooks and crannies to find inner peace, and 160,000 square feet are still left to fill. If Area 15 were a mathematical equation, it would be (steampunk) x Universal CityWalk ÷ Downtown Disney — (Daft Punk) Dave & Buster’s + Havana’s Fabrica De Arte Cubano x “Avatar” — “Battlefield Earth.”
So much to see and do that’s exciting and new, but we’d be remiss if respect weren’t paid to the most iconic of Las Vegas entertainers: the showgirl. The day production shows are back can’t come soon enough for the night-performing Mariah Rivera, whose dancing has been limited to TikTok videos since the curtain came down on the Fantasy adult revue at Luxor in March.
“No one expected this to last six months, and there’s sadly no end in sight,” said Rivera, who doubles as associate producer of the seminal floorshow. “Like everybody in the industry, I can’t wait to be back on stage in front of smiling audiences, even if they are required to wear masks. I’ll know they’re smiling. You can see it in their eyes.”
If you go
Area 15 — area15.com, 702-846-1900
Bellagio — bellagio.com, 702-693-7111
Circa — circalasvegas.com, 833-247-2258
Downtown Grand — downtowngrand.com, 702-719-5100
Luxor — luxor.com, 800-557-7428
Mandalay Bay — mandalaybay.com, 877-632-7700
Savory Bites & Neon Lights — flymaverick.com, 702-405-4300
The STRAT — thestrat.com, 800-998-6937
Venetian Resort – venetian.com, 866-659-9643
