Creative In Conversation: Roxanne Assoulin On Her Thoroughly Playful Jewelry Brand

Roxanne Assoulin has had a long love affair with the fashion industry, working with the best of the best, from Marc Jacobs to Oscar de la Renta in a career that has spanned over three decades.

Fast forward to 2016, and she established her own eponymous jewelry brand, famous for its use of enamel. There’s colorful, stackable bracelets, sweet initial necklaces, hoop earrings, drop earring, and even DIY kits for those who want to channel their inner creative. And it’s safe to say that Roxanne has built the brand up to cult status, with leading stockists under her belt, and more than a few famous faces, from Eva Chen, to Leandra Medine, and Karlie Kloss all wanting in on her vibrant and fun-inducing jewelry.

Assoulin tells us about her start in the fashion industry, and her namesake label that’s founded on playful colors and kindness.

Felicity Carter: Tell us about your journey into the industry?

Roxanne Assoulin: Back In 1976, I found myself making hair accessories for Fiorucci, the hub of what was streetwear back in the ‘70s. I started my line and designed runway jewelry for everyone from Oscar de la Renta to Marc Jacobs to Stephen Sprouse etc.

Then when stores like J. Crew, Abercrombie, and Anthropology started to boom, I got so many requests and the orders were so big, I slowly started a pivot into private label, and continued with that for a good 10 years.

Most recently, in 2016 I started the RA line. I was playing around with some handmade tiles that I'd commissioned in the ‘80s and made a single line of colors and thinking, that would make a cool bracelet. And a star was born, so to speak. 

It was nothing that I’d never seen before and I’d been in this industry for 35 years. We sold out on the first day. We waited three months for our next order and sold out in three days. It went on like that for a year.

FC: What's the piece that has the greatest sentiment to you?

RA: All of them really. They’re my babies, nothing gets launched without my hand in it and that is my favorite part. I love so many things, I’m fickle and my eye tires easily, so I’m always shaking it up. I did love our latest black-on-black bracelet, though I wasn’t sure anyone else would. They did. We sold out in a couple of hours.

FC: What is the classic, RA aesthetic? 

RA: It’s clean. A really contained and simple silhouette. And then we add color. Like a pink sock with a charcoal suit or a surprise hit of a neon stripe. Something to make you smile. To remind me that life is not as serious as I sometimes think it is.

FC: Which is the first piece that you ever designed? 

RA: My First hair accessories were made out of twigs I'd found, and some random rhinestones I had lying around. Then came Leather wrap bracelets in 120 colors and skins. I started with a Savitt cuff and wrapped it. Then some Cara Croninger resin bracelets I’d had lying around. People were literally grabbing my wrists on the streets. I Would go to open days at all the major Dept stores. We sold the entire sample set to Henri Bendels when it was still the retail jewel of 57th street, along with Bloomingdale’s, and Neiman Marcus.

FC: What is luxury to you? 

RA: Understated clothing with a bit of an edge. I have a weak spot for quality. Fine Cotton, and cashmere, a good coat and bag. I’m not a fan of throw-away clothing or trends. I've always loved a crisp white shirt, a blazer, jeans and a white sneaker. And a pop of color somewhere, always a little something to throw you off. It used to be socks, now it’s bracelets.

FC: Who do you design for? 

RA: Myself! I’ve spent so much of my life designing for buyers, that when I started doing this I vowed I would never make anything I wouldn’t wear. We’re lucky as a company because we cross so many categories, especially age and gender. My aim was to make people smile when they opened the box. To give them a bit more than they thought they would get. We call it a pleasant surprise.

FC: Which is your favorite piece at the moment, and how do you style it up? 

RA: I honestly don’t have a favorite, I love switching it up, it’s winter now so if I had to pick I would say there are an old blue and black checkerboard bracelet that I’m particularly fond of. It’s been my winter staple. I wear it with jeans and a turtleneck, which has become my uniform over the past four months.

FC: What's the most valuable lesson that you've learnt over your career? 

RA: I've learned so much, but for me, the biggest lesson has been that kindness is its own reward. It’s a powerful tool and it costs nothing. As a company, both within and without, it’s what we strive for. We’re not always perfect, but it is our North Star. 

See more on the Roxanne Assoulin website.